When faced with a “no start” problem the first thing we ask is: what happens when you turn the key? Does the vehicle’s engine “turn over” trying to start? Are there any noises when you try to start it? Does is whine, click, groan or just stay quiet? This information helps us differentiate between two conditions known as a “NO crank NO start” or a “crank NO start”. The first condition, no crank no start usually means that there is a problem with the starting and charging system. That system includes the starter, the battery and alternator, and sometimes the ignition switch or relays associated with the system. Occasionally, we find that two of these parts can be bad, but usually it is just one.
If the battery light on the dash is turned on, most often the problem lies with the alternator, not the battery. Crazy.
If there is a clicking sound and no crank, the problem often is caused by a bad starter. The down and dirty test for a bad starter is to TAP (not hit) the starter with a rubber mallet while somone tries to turn the car over. If it starts, the problem likely rests with the starter.
If there is absolutely no sound at all, any one or more of the components may be damaged and must be tested. We recommend that the testing be done with the components in the vehicle and not be removed for what is known as “bench testing”. These parts work as a team and are best tested in place where they all interact with one another.
Some people believe that since their radio and inside lights are working, the battery must be OK, but that is not necessarily the case. Those electrical items will operate at a much lower voltage than the starter and can lull you into a false sense that the battery is good, when in fact it is weak but not dead.
If the car starts with a jump and runs fine, but will not start after being turned off, the alternator is probably working fine and only battery will need to be replaced. However, if the car starts with a jump and does not run for long, the problem lies most likely with the alternator, but sometimes with the battery, and sometimes both are bad. On occasion we find that an alternator will overcharge (alternator gone mad) and destroy the battery in which case both may need replacement.
I have had an occasion where the inside of my battery went bad when I turned the key and there was a flash and then nothing. This is pretty rare but can occur as well.
The more complicated problem is that of the “crank NO start” in which there is power to turn the engine over but it will not light off and start. There are a number of issues that can cause this situation. Lack of spark or fuel are the most common causes and require more sophisticated testing to determine an exact cause. These are best handled by someone with a fair amount of experience in automotive diagnosis to figure out. Some causes can be a dead ignition coil, plugged fuel filter, failed fuel pump, toasted engine/fuel injection control unit and several more.
As our vehicles have become more complex and sophisticated, the need for testing and analyzing data have become necessary to repair failures. Due to the price of the equipment to do the testing and training for our technicians, you can expect to pay a fee for determining the cause of the problem. Free testing is done only by those who have not made the investments and is often inaccurate, so beware of the offer of free. The old saying “you get what you pay for” applies here.